Michael Hill-Smith

A genuinely split wine personality, Michael Hill-Smith has earned his right to comment on Australian wine. Australia’s first Master of Wine, he has been a regular wine show judge for nearly 20 years, is a consultant to Singapore Airlines and an occasional contributor to the wine media. Hill-Smith was born into a dynastic wine family, but sold his shareholding in Yalumba in 1989 to fund his own projects, which include the Universal Wine Bar in Adelaide and the successful Shaw and Smith wine label, established with his cousin Martin Shaw.

What has been the secret behind the success of Shaw and Smith?

Martin and I decided to specialise in two varieties. So many people bite off more than they can chew and get into trouble, so we chose to become specialists rather than generalists, with chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. We don’t have too many wines, but they are as diverse as wooded chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. Our packaging isn’t elaborate and complicated, but our aim was that whatever wines we made would be amongst the best of their type in the country.

Shaw and Smith began in 1989 and this year we sold 18,000 cases, 30 of which was sold overseas, especially to the UK, Singapore and Hong Kong. Our target is to sit around 25,000 cases with 3 products.

The Shaw and Smith Reserve Chardonnay is unquestionably one of Australia’s finest, yet it retails for only $25. I reckon it could be at least $10 more expensive.

The margins are still there and we only make a small amount. There is a degree of value with a degree of perceived quality. I love heaps of flavour and a really tightly built palate with definition of acids, which is exactly what Adelaide Hills fruit can do. Our best wine in quality terms the Reserve Chardonnay is that which we’re least known for, but I’m overjoyed if it’s mentioned in the same league as Petaluma, Leeuwin or Giaconda.

As the vice-chairman of the Adelaide Show and a regular judge at Sydney, how important do you consider wine shows are to the Australian industry?
Firstly, shows are a guide to wine buyers. A gold medal in Adelaide or Sydney is still an indication of quality. Next is the ‘best of breed’ factor for producers. When I started judging there was little chardonnay and no pinot noir. If I now look at the quality of Australian pinot and chardonnay – especially chardonnay – the strength of show classes has clearly assisted their ever-changing evolution of style.

The other and forgotten role of shows is to blood young winemakers and wine people into associate judges and judges of the future. Any young winemaker who has been an associate for a couple of years at a major wine show has really learned a lot by the process, even if they don’t go on and become a judge. Shows are therefore very relevant, although you have the craziness of politics and the occasional ossification of the people who run them.

How important are the letters MW after your name?

They’re invaluable to me. It the Master of Wine qualification has broadened my outlook to international wine styles and markets. It’s helped me greatly to get consultancies like Singapore Airlines and to get articles published. Without it I would have been associated with Yalumba until the day I died. Selling my stake in Yalumba gave me the means to do things I always wanted to do. In the meantime, Rob Hill-Smith always knew that he wanted to run the family company, which I think he is doing with great success.

One of advantages of being a MW is to be part of a network of international wine people. It takes a huge effort and investment to achieve. There’s only a 10 pass rate on average, but the other 90 of people do not take it lightly.
Unlike the UK, where there is a certificate, a higher certificate and diploma, there are very few steps up to the MW in Australia. We require a nationally recognised, nationally taught syllabus, standardised for the Australian industry, particularly for the wholesale and retail trade.

Some voices within the industry appear to be pushing for a Europe-like appellation control which might restrict plantings of grapes like chardonnay. What do you think of the idea?

I’m happy to drink chardonnay from anywhere as long as it’s wonderful. There is no reason at all why Bordeaux could not grow great chardonnay considering the average quality of its white wine. The introduction of chardonnay would be fantastic, but they will go on making ordinary quality wines to the region’s detriment.

When I taste benchmark Napa, Carneros, white Burgundy, South African and New Zealand chardonnay, I’m amazed at how different they all are. The great credibility of Italy remains its regionalism, but there is now chardonnay and cabernet growing everywhere, Even the super-Tuscans which are predominantly cabernet taste Tuscan to me. Sure they taste of cabernet, but there’s no doubt they taste Tuscan.

How optimistic are you about the Australian wine industry?

Hugely. People are predicting the next glut and vine pull scheme, but I think it’s absolute crap. Australia makes under 2 of the world’s wine. For us to produce 4 of the world’s wine does not have massive ramifications internationally, but it does have huge ramifications for Australia. Len Evans is talking with great vision when he says wine could be one of the most significant agricultural industries in Australia.

At a new wave Australian wine tasting with Hazel Murphy in London we served two very good Australian pinots. Some people said they were expensive, but not one person in the room could think of a Burgundy able to compete on price. It’s reassuring that there is still value for money in Australian wine, even at $30 a bottle. Please login to post comment