Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz

Some wines are good enough and stick around for long enough to become synonymous with a region. Campbells’ Bobbie Burns Shiraz is one of those wines. Its progress over the decades actually traces the evolution of red winemaking in Rutherglen, so a recent vertical tasting of the wine was impossible to miss.

The first Bobbie Burns were made without much cooling, using water pumped over the vats. 1974 was the first year that winemaker Colin Campbell used his ‘new’ fermentation cellar, which enabled him to pump over during fermentation and also to put some fruit through Australia’s first rotary fermenter. Following years involved a large amount of experimentation with fermentation techniques and temperatures. The ‘cool climate revolution’ of the early 1980s made it necessary for warm climate makers to lighten off their reds.

From the mid 1980s the wines became gradually bigger, with more small new oak influence. Colin Campbell says these wines were ‘pretty well improved versions of what we started doing’. In the late 1980s Campbells toyed with a premium Rutherglen Shiraz that took much of the best fruit away from the Bobbie Burns. The experiment was short-lived, and the scores below show how the Bobbie Burns was affected during these years, with a short series of lighter, lesser wines.

The 1990s saw a very consistent decade in which the wine has gained weight and flesh, hitting a high point with the powerful 1995 wine. From 1993 onwards the wines have typically been picked around 14.5 degrees Baume, which they easily carry in most seasons. The 2000 vintage aside, which produced the most powerful and over-ripe Bobbie Burns ever and a wine that Colin Campbell does consider to be slightly out of style, this label should never be confused for a modern blockbuster shiraz. Its hallmarks are softness and roundness, with a drinkability that extends from its earliest days to a decent old age.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 2000 $19 retail, approx.

17.2

Spirity warm aromas of spicy violets, prunes, currants and raisins over hints of licorice and tar and currants. Powerful, lavishly textured, firm and grippy, with intense dark, ripe fruits and a thick, smooth extract. Too hot for a top score. Drink 2008-2012

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1999

16.7

Rather developed, spicy and peppery aromas of cooked prunes, chocolate and confection. Generous, ripe and fleshy palate of strength and smoothness finishes a little blocky and chunky, lacking finesse. Could use more acidity. Drink 2004-2007

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1998

17.0

Confection-like floral perfume of small black and red berries, white pepper, cinnamon and cloves with restrained vanilla oak. Building into a voluptuous, rich red, with generous, smooth ripe flavours and textures over a balanced and fine-grained spine of drying tannins. A sleeper, destined to develop more complexity with age. Drink 2006-2010

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1997

16.8

Plummy, pruney nose of licorice, raisins and small berries, rather cooked and over-oaky aromas of chocolate and vanilla. Smooth, soft and rich, with generous, if uncomplicated ripe fruit wrapped in velvet tannins. Drink 2002-2005+.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1996

17.0

Meaty, spicy, slightly reductive and leathery aromas of cooked and maraschino cherries. Little stewed and jammy, but very ripe, assertive and powerful, packed with ripe fruit framed by slightly hard-edged tannins. Just needs time. Drink 2008-2016.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1995

18.0

A huge surprise! Ripe but developed and leathery aromas of concentrated sweet plums, cherries, chocolates and vanilla precede a slightly smoky palate of smoothness and strength. Wrapped around a vibrant core of sweet plum, blackcurrant and blueberry fruit are some pleasingly ripe and fine tannins, with balanced oak. Great year or great bottle? It’s always been a favourite at Campbells. Drink 2003-2007+.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1994

17.4

Pungent smoky, meaty and leathery aromas of some complexity suggest burned molasses, vanilla and toffee. Firm and more astringent than most vintages, with powerful dark and spicy fruits overlying some cooler greenish notes. Will develop well. Drink 2002-2006+.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1993

16.6

More of a herbal, Rhone-like wine with dusty aromas of spices, licorice, dark plums and undergrowth, while the palate is rich and smooth, but rather more hard-edged and spirity than most vintages. Drink 2001-2005+.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1992

17.9

Closed, earthy chocolate-like scents of smoke and sweet leather backed by deep aromas of maraschino cherries, plums and red berries. There’s a muddy, earthy note behind the smooth, ripe and spicy palate of lively fruit, vanilla oak and creamy tannins. Well balanced and distinctively regional shiraz. Drink 2000-2004+.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1991

16.7

Restrained leathery, spicy and brightly-lit blackcurrant and plum fruit with a pleasing background of chocolate, treacle and licorice. Surprisingly powerful and mouthfilling; delivers a long, punchy palate of intense, spicy fruit and smoky oak with firm tannins. Fractionally porty for a higher rating. Drink 1999-2003.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1990

15.8

Cooked, cedary and lightly varnishy, with light plum and cherry aromas slightly cooked. Dries out rather quickly on the palate, finishing tough and astringent. Drink 1992-1995+.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1989

15.0

Light, earthy and cooked, with leathery and pruney aromas and a thin, ageing palate that dries out too fast. Drink 1994-1997.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1988

15.5

Closed and herbal aromas of light fruit lacking any depth. Forward, rather stale and hollow, from a lighter, cooler year. Drink 1993-1996.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1987

15.8

Earthy, leathery and greenish chookshed aromas lacking fruit persist on the thin, shortish palate from a cooler season that has seen better days. Drink 1992-1995.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1986

17.6

Creamy aromas of chocolate, leather and aniseed with hints of coffee and cough mixture precede a rich, smooth and generous palate of genuine maturity and freshness. Long, nutty and savoury, with lingering, earthy flavours of leather and chocolate. Drink 1994-1998+.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1985

17.9

Complex dusty and spicy, scented with fennel, cinnamon, leather and plain chocolate, revealing both freshness and development. At the peak of its powers, smooth and velvet-like, with opulent berry/plum fruit and fine, soft tannins. Drink 1993-1997+.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1984

16.5

Developed, aged red now tasting oxidised. Clearly once possessed roundness and weight, but made in earlier-drinking style from cooler vintage. Drink 1989-1992+.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1983

17.1

Ripe, concentrated plummy aromas scented with sweet leather and chocolate. Firm, tarry drought year wine with a mellow and creamy palate packed with spicy fruit. It’s softened out, but still finishes earthy and savoury with kernel-like tannins. Drink 1995-2003.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1982

16.8

Spicy, earthy and leathery bouquet, drying out to leave dusty, leafy aromas with hints of chocolate. Ageing medium to full palate, now fully smoothed out with creamy tannins, still offering some generous fruit and persistent suggestions of earth, vanilla and tar. Alive and intact. Drink 1994-2002.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1981

16.5

Dusty, mature bitumen-like bouquet of old leather and cooked plums, rather charming and old-fashioned. Soft, elegant and supple, medium to full in weight, now breaking up and drying out at the finish, but still lively enough with some charming sweet fruit and lingering hints of licorice and chocolate. Drink 1989-1993+.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1976

17.8

Vibrant, lively aromas of liqueur chocolates, tar and sweet red plums with an underlying dustiness and earthiness. Long, smooth and ethereal, the palate is supple and elegant, with bright, vibrant earthy, leathery flavours and a fine spine of drying tannins. Drink 1988-1996.

Campbells Bobbie Burns Shiraz 1975

18.0

Charming Rutherglen red with a smoky, dusty nose of old leather, tar and spices and a moderately full palate whose sweet flavours of dark plums are still in evidence. Medium to full in weight, smooth and chocolatey, with lingering bitumen flavours. Drink 1987-1995+. Please login to post comment