Australian Vintage Report 2007

Occurring at the likely coincidence of the height of a once-in-a-century drought and the ongoing process of climate change, the 2007 vintage was unprecedented in several ways. It was extraordinarily early, was affected by an incredible range of severe climatic effects, and it was dramatically small, falling by an estimated 25 to 1.42 million tonnes. Science tells us that we should expect an increasing number of climatic catastrophes as the planet warms up, but the sequence faced by the wine and grape growing industries prior to the 2007 vintage was nothing short of Biblical in its impact and diversity.

The drought and global warming effects led to an unusually early budburst, which in many southerly or higher altitude regions occurred under cloudless skies and freezing nights. Under these conditions, the impact of repetitive frost incidences was unprecedented. Across several regions, some of which received up to thirteen separate major frosts, not only primary but secondary buds were damaged. So not only were crop extremely low, but there are ongoing concerns not only regarding the 2008 harvest and also of vine health beyond.

Many Australian vineyards are ‘protected’ by overhead ‘frost-free’ irrigation systems, but these are of course only serviceable when there is a supply of water. In many cases over the 2006/2007 season, growers were unable to use their defence systems.

The hot, dry windy conditions also helped to promote one of Australia’s earliest and worst bushfire seasons. While only a small percentage of vineyards in bushfire-prone regions like Victoria’s King Valley were actually burned out, bushfire smoke entirely covered many wine regions in the country’s southeast for an extended period during the ripening process, including much of the state of Victoria. Smoke taint is not readily identifiable in wine until the fermentation is finished, and because many makers are not experienced in either identifying or dealing with the issue, its impact is not yet fully accounted for in the crop statistics.

Then, just prior to the harvest of smaller than anticipated crops, regions like McLaren Vale received significant and abrupt rainfalls, the effect of which was not to aid but to damage the fruit. Fruit splitting was rife in several warmer regions, causing further losses. Afterwards, the final ripening around Australia tended to occur in hot, dry conditions that in many cases led to fruit stress and uneven ripening.

Ultimately, red grapes were greatly more affected than white, being down on 2006 levels by 35 and 14 respectively. While shiraz and cabernet sauvignon were both down by 36, chardonnay was only down by 8.

There has perhaps never been a more patchy vintage from a quality perspective. As ever, fruit and wine quality will depend on whether or not vineyards were able to coincide the ripening of sugar, flavour and tannins. In many warmer regions, sugar levels ripened well in advance of flavour, creating more wines with meaty, stewed characters and well as herbaceous, under-ripe influences as well as green-edged tannins. Because of the extreme earliness of the season, as well its exceptional heat, this phenomenon would also have repeated across cooler regions.

Despite these valid misgivings, I should observe that I have been pleasantly surprised by the small number of 2007 releases I have tasted prior to the completion of this book, in mid-July.

New South Wales


While the Hunter Valley produced some exceptional semillons with bright luminous green colours, it could also be a good year for the riper expressions of its shiraz. This region managed to escape smoke taint entirely in 2007. Cowra’s yields were down, but semillon and other whites were of good quality. Mudgee struggled to produce its best quality. Orange did not perform quite as well in the warmer season, with sound enough chardonnay but ordinary sauvignon blanc.

While yields were well down in Griffith, its reds are bright and intense. Whites were less impressive, but rains in May helped growers produce good botrytis-affected late harvest whites. The outcome for regions like Hilltops, Gundagai and Tumbarumba was very much a vineyard-by-vineyard issue, largely depending on the water availability for each site.

South Australia


Drought, heat and frost were the major influences on grape quality in South Australia – and whether indeed some vineyards were or were not harvested. Warm sites in warm regions like Clare, the Barossa and McLaren Vale were subject to accelerated sugar ripening, and are less likely to produce wine of typical standard. The interval between veraison and harvest was unusually short in many cases. However, Clare and Eden Valley rieslings are better than those from 2006. The Riverlands produced good fruit brightness and intensity.

However later, cooler sites in these areas, and cooler districts like Eden Valley, the Adelaide Hills, the Fleurieu Peninsula and Langhorne Creek fared significantly better, Langhorne Creek in fact having an exceptionally good season. The Coonawarra vineyards that were not wiped out by frost produced excellent whites and medium-bodied reds, Padthaway had a reasonable vintage, while Robe’s was excellent.

Tasmania


A frost-reduced crop which reduced yields by around 40 produced some good results from a very early vintage. In most cases, pinot fared best with some high-standard wines, while riesling and chardonnay were of sound quality. Even ripeness was not aided by primary and secondary crops being harvested together.

Victoria


Victoria’s vintage was uniformly early and small, but quality has surprised by being acceptable to good, with some genuine highlights where growers were not frosted and had adequate water. Smoke taint might yet prove a major ongoing issue for wineries in the Yarra Valley, the Strathbogies and the King Valley, especially with red wines. Frost was also a major issue with the Yarra Valley, Geelong, central Victoria, the Strathbogies, King Valley and Rutherglen.

The Yarra and Mornington Peninsula can anticipate some fine pinot noir, while across the state it was very tough for cabernet and sauvignon, which were generally harvested below genuine ripeness.

Western Australia


Only 15-17 down on volume, 2007 was a dry, warm but high-quality vintage in the west. While some Swan Valley, Perth Hills and Gingin crops were affected by sunburn, these regions should produce some good dry whites. Geographe harvested ripe reds and some good whites, while Margaret River’s reds should be of comparable standard to the excellent 2004s. The region will also deliver some very herbal sauvignon blanc, some ripe and juicy semillon and some flavoursome chardonnay.
Pemberton experienced a fine white vintage, especially for sauvignon blanc. From a very dry season, Frankland River’s reds will be ripe and firm, while the rieslings should be sound. Mount Barker produced encouraging chardonnay and excellent reds from shiraz and cabernet sauvignon. Please login to post comment