Grenache

The sudden emergence in Australia over the last decade of a plethora of old vine grenache, much of which purports to be made from vines over a century old, would bewilder even Albert Einstein. After shiraz, grenache is Australia’s second most widely planted Rhone Valley red grape and it’s fair to say in this country at least, that it has been drawn into the spotlight like a box-car being dragged along by the shiraz juggernaut.

Grenache has always been here, but nobody has ever really paid it much serious attention. It’s oldest Australian plantings are typically found in the South Australian regions of the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Clare Valley, but from neither of these areas do there come any traditional grenache labels or brands with any real history or heritage. Consummately ignoring the variety’s reputation in the south of France and virtually oblivious of the potential it is now realising as a dry red, generations of winemakers dismissed it as a fortified wine base and a blending option to mix with shiraz and mataro. Actually, most of Australia’s grenache is grown in the river areas, where it contributes whatever it does to the plethora of red wines still sold in casks.

However Australian grenache has mushroomed to the extent that it’s now made into a reasonably wide spread of styles. Some are juicy, ripe, sweet and almost porty, many of these so soft and ready to drink by their release date that there’s no value in cellaring them. I’m less attracted by these wines, although they’re perfectly acceptable at some barbecues.

The best wines from grenache tend to be better-structured, firmer and more savoury wines, many of which actually dampen down its tendency to present simple, jammy confection-like flavours of blueberries and plums. These wines focus more on the complex spicy and musky possibilities of the grape, which range between cloves, white pepper, nutmeg and cinnamon, with a more reserved expression of dark cherry and dried plum fruit characters.

These are serious reds, worthy of good cellars, and ideally suited to richer meat dishes and casseroles. Personally, I enjoy them with traditional Italian cuisine.

There are few better Australian grenaches made than the excellent Tintara wine made by Steve Pannell and his team at BRL Hardy at the historic Tintara winery, main drag, McLaren Vale. It’s based on fruit from ancient dry grown bush vines at Hardys’ Yeenunga and Horseshoe Hill vineyards in the ironstone hills north of McLaren Vale and now receives some from sandier soils at Blewitt Springs.

Fermented in small wax-lined concrete open fermenters, it receives some whole bunches to enhance fruit character and to augment tannins, before being traditionally handled through basket presses. Unlike many Australian grenaches, the Tintara only receives maturation in French oak casks, typically for twelve months. The wine usually contains between 7-10 of shiraz.

With the 1999 vintage about to replace the 1998 in the marketplace, you still have the chance to taste two extremes of Tintara’s style. The 1998 vintage is deliciously sumptuous, with deep, dark layers of fruit and complexity. It’s quite firm and will still improve for nearly a decade. The forthcoming 1999 wine reflects a lighter red wine vintage. It’s pretty, peppery and fragrant, with wild raspberry fruit aromas, musk and nutmeg. It’s more forward, softer and will be earlier to mature than the 1998 edition. The wine sells for around $28 at retail.

If you’ve had bad experiences with grenache – and you have plenty of excuses if you have – don’t dismiss the grape without giving the Tintara a try.

Twelve Australian Grenaches for the Shopping List:

Charles Melton Grenache
Clarendon Hills Grenache various labels
d’Arenberg The Custodian Grenache
Hamilton’s Stonegarden Mature Vine Grenache
Hardy’s Tintara Grenache
Haselgrove Grenache
Kay’s Amery Grenache
Mitchell The Growers Grenache
Tim Adams The Fergus Grenache
Turkey Flat Grenache Noir
Woodstock Grenache
Yalumba Bush Vine Grenache Please login to post comment