This historic brand is finding its feet at the upper end of McLaren Vale's red echelon, with high-end and regionally specific wines from cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and grenache. The pick of the current crop is the 2007 Grenache, a variety that seems to have thrived in the heat of the 2007 vintage. Frankly, the Shiraz is underpriced today, especially when considered against the large number of makers presently charging far more for unproved young vineyard wines with little pedigree or provenance.