Mount Ida is a tiny Heathcote vineyard that, through a series of historical accidents, has ended up in the hands of Beringer Blass, one of the world's largest wine producers. It was planted in 1975 by Melbourne artist Len French, the designer of the National Gallery of Victoria's remarkable and recently cleaned) ceiling. Its wines are typically better balanced, more fruit-driven and elegant than the modern dry port for which Heathcote is sadly becoming known in these allegedly enlightened days. They're great value and they live well.