Its exceptional season in 1996, which coincided with the arrival of Martin Williams as winemaker, has put Yarra Valley Hills onto the big stage. The powerful and concentrated Pinot Noir from that season has much in common with those of Tarrawarra in 1992 and 1994 both strongly influenced by Williams while the Chardonnay is super-refined and stylish. Those who love a pungent Sauvignon Blanc should enjoy the bone-dry 1996 vintage, which comes with a whiff of fresh asparagus.